All entries under Day 09: 21st Mar

Only days ago the sight of our first iceberg brought gasps of admiration from the ship´s company. In the short time that has elapsed we have been amazed by a seemingly endless display of breaching humpback whales, hunting orcas, porpoise-ing penguins and every variety of seal imaginable, sometimes reclining on icebergs, at others lounging on frozen beaches. Perhaps most spectacular of all, the explosive destruction of an iceberg that thundered across the bay below as Nick Whitfield manfully attempted to hold our attention with discussions around leadership. Indeed, it seems that Nick is destined to be usurped by nature; the tail fin of a whale, the play of sunlight on a towering granite mountainside or the visit of a leopard seal.

The weather has also been kind to us but in different ways. On our first day ashore, our zodiacs were swept inland by 40 knot winds and driving snow, showing us the destructive potential of Antarctica. The very next day we set foot on the continent proper and the world is made of the brightest possible blues and whites, reflecting under a blazing sun. It is a feast for the senses and, combined with Robert´s inimitable pronouncements and the sometime eccentric announcements from the bridge, we feel as though we have been in this strange and wonderful place forever. “Bronco 5” has become the bizarrest possible addition to the vocabulary of those handling English as a second language and we eat gargantuan portions in the galley in a state of permanent anticipation that we will be told to; “Get it down your necks and get on deck” to witness yet another spectacle that upstages the last. We are on a state of pleasant amber alert.

Today – although it´s hard to separate the whole experience into 24 hour blocks – saw us camping out above a penguin colony in -6 degrees centigrade and then passing through Lemaire Passage, a narrow gorge between towering cliffs interspersed by fractured glaciers, that reminded more than a few expedition-ers of a scene from Homer´s Odyssey. When it seems things can get no better, our hosts the humpback whales put in a spectacular appearance and we begin to wonder what else we could possibly see in this astonishing place. It´s a cliché to say that neither words, nor even pictures, can convey the feeling of experiencing these things at first hand.

Personally, I find the strangest sensation of all is my inability to visualize the absence of human activity in this land, which covers the area of Australia twice over. We are 100 hands, all in, and it seems the world of our ship M.V. Ushuaia is a busy place. But somehow I must comprehend that, besides our own little industry, is a vast tract where not a single human being has made a home for more than a few fleeting moments. It is weird to encounter a place that allows us now to enjoy its secrets, but so obviously on sufferance. Of course this is the whole point of 2041 (expiration date of a moratorium on mineral exploitation of Antartica) and Robert´s environmental obsessions but it doesn´t enter the urban mind easily.

Wishing all the family a Happy Easter at home in England.

Hi di Ho,

It´s about time you hear something about me. I´m still having a wonderful time!!! Way to go! Last night we were camping in the mountain in tents, and it was quite an experience. Different from the camping I was used of in Europe. It was cold and there was no real toilet, so I decided to sleep with all the layers I had, in the sleeping bag. It worked fortunately, I didn´t suffer at all. No cold feet nor cold hands whatsoever. But the only thing was, I couldn´t fall asleep, and when I did it was superficially, and on top of that I needed to go to the made up lavatory. That was not fun! But I made it and it was a big relieve, thinking of an empty bladder, and keeping Antarctica clean.

Actually we´re being kept pretty busy, no time to get bored nor to meditate. Time is going fast, and before I know it´s over. Two more days are left for the South Shetlands and than 2 last days to go back through the Drake Passage.

After that we´ll spent 3 days in Buenos Aires and than back home. I can´t wait to tell you all I´ve experienced!! See you pretty soon!

Art

not sure what date but it is but it is good Friday, I know this since we were told but missed out on the hot cross buns! And now come to think of it will not have Easter Eggs but since I don`t like chocolate this is hardly a hardship. I wonder if Peter has already eaten all of the eggs that I hid around the house for him!

Yesterday was a very long action packed day. Our leadership on the edge session was held on the Antarctic continent against a background of blue sky and sunshine and we all sat on our backpacks to keep dry. Somewhat bizarre to have the flipchart stuck in the snow and listening to Nick!

As I know that I am a wimp I did not slide down the hill but did a sedate walk! In the evening after an early supper we went to set up tents and camp overnight in Dorian Bay. Luckily lots of other people knew how to put up a tent but this was my first experience of ice screws – yes huge metal screws that you just screw into the ice! I could not believe how cosy my red sleeping bag was and did not suffer from the cold, but so much for tranquility – I don’t understand how some people can snore so loudly and not wake themselves up! Am learning how to dress for this climate – in the words of the team here layers layers layers which has the end result of one looking like a snowman or the Michelin man or both!

Great excitement today as have seen Orka whales and humpback whales and penguins porpoising when we were out on the zodiacs. Tonight we are going to Port somewhere where there are a whole bunch of penguins who apparently have no fear at all of humans.

I have taken so many photos and short videos but the quality of the videos is a bit like the blair witch project. Nonethless you cant believe quite how exquisite the icebergs are and the colours are just outstanding and all of the shapes.

Getting my sea legs and hope that they will stay for the crossing back through the Drake Passage!

Hi family and friends,

We did so many things these passing days that I tend to get confused in the days!!! I am having a terrific time. The combination of leadership on the edge training and visiting this amazing continent is just great. Although when whales are spotted the team leaders have a hard time getting us all back inside to continue the training!!! We have seen hunchback whales, orca whales, gentoo penguins, seals and different species of birds. Yesterday we had a leadership on the edge training on the edge of a glacier!!!! They even took a flip chart along!!! We had a beautiful view over Charlotte´s bay. Nick is a good trainer but in this part of the world it seems like all the time he needs to compete against nature. This time it was a disintegration of a huge iceberg just in front of our eyes in the bay below us!!! Reminding us of global warming…… Back un the boat we had to pack our stuff for our one night camping on the ice trip. We camped on top of a glacier at Dorian bay. It was cold but I felt very warm and comfortable in the sleeping bag. Actually I slept better in this tent on top of the glacier then all the other nights on the boat!!!! Today we saw incredible beautiful Icebergs. I can’t get enough of the forms!!! The group is great. We are getting to know each other and we have a lot of fun, good conversations and discussions. I miss you all, Michael lots of kisses, wish you all could be here to become as inspired as we are already. Antarctica has won the hearts of all of us. A new expression of gladness is born: “feel like you are on the bottom of the world!!!!” I wish you all a happy Easter!!!

Regards,

Diane Copini-Rigaud