Akzo Nobel's Inspire Antarctic Expedition 2008

I finally got some sleep last night, especially after not getting much camping and not wanting to take a nap during the day yesterday and miss anything. After breakfast, I went on the deck as we entered Paradise Bay, an area Jumper says is the most beautiful place in the world. This ride into Paradise Bay outside on the upper deck was all about me. I had my big red Akzo Nobel parka on and had my head buried deep in the hood. As I was able to do many times on this expedition, I stood there by myself. I went into my own little world and passed my life, up to this point, in front of me. I went through ever possible emotion one can have. I was happy and even laughed and certain thoughts were sad and I cried. I thought about accomplishments I have had and the disappointments I wish I had a 2nd chance to do over. I have been able to have some very personal time for me and what a place to do it. These reflections are ones that don’t come from your head; these come from the heart!

After I had enough about “me” in the morning, I ended up in the Plasma room. A call by Jumper over the intercom says that there were humpbacks on the starboard side – so we quickly jumped up to see if we could see them. As I am looking outside to try to find them, one of the humpbacks breaches completely right in front of us about 40 yards out. It was close enough that you could see the barnacles all over its body. Another unbelievable moment!!!

Another LOTE session, this time on the rocks in Paradise Bay and was it ever SPECTACULAR!!! After completing it, I did my video interview with Marjan for the website and was in a frame of mind when I really felt the reality of where I am and why I am here in Antarctica!!!!! After the interview, she gave me a little hug and said she really felt what I was saying in her heart. It sure came from mine!

After lunch, it was time for Robert to do part 4 of his story. A conclusion of his amazing life, told in 4 segments. The afternoon was spent on-board the ship with people and watching sights. After dinner, it was time to discuss Part 5, which is “our” story. The work is almost complete by Robert and Nick and the torch is getting ready to be passed to us.

A late night up for me, hanging around and chatting with the “Russians” and Paola from Mexico. Last night in Antarctica – the “feared” Drake Passage crossing tomorrow after dinner…………..

Another morning awoken by the ever popular voice of Peter saying Inspire Team, Inspire Team, Inspire Team. This morning is Easter so Happy Easter all! After traveling all night, we arrived at Deception Island, the active volcano that is full of water. We did a morning landing and it had penguins and seals all around. While on land, we visited the remains of an old whaling station. Talking about sustainability, the whalers built buildings, fuel tanks and huge tanks to put the whale oil in. The whalers then went crazy and completely killed all the whales. After that, they left many buildings, tanks, trash behind.

After lunch, we visited Half Moon Island. This place had penguins, most chinstrap penguins and fur seals all over it. It was amazing watching these penguins climb all over the rocks.

When everyone returned from the visit on land, everyone was called to the upper deck of the ship. Jumper had the bell rang 3 times for Antarctica, 3 times for the ship, Ushuaia and 3 times for 2041. Then, we all did hip, hip, hooray 3 times and the Captain blew the ship’s horn 1 long time to signal our official departure from Antarctica. Next, Robert gave a speech thanking each of us for being with him on this expedition. Lastly, Robert said his real message is……..(he stood there for a moment of silence to listen to Antarctica). It was powerful.

After dinner, the group had a slide show about David. He had passionately taken so many pictures of Antarctica and of us that we wanted to show him the pictures we had of him. We owe him a huge THANK YOU, because he saw a lot of Antarctica through a camera lens, instead of truly experiencing it.

We have heard rumors the last 2 days that the Drake Passage crossing is going to be a very rough one. Bring it on; it will be an amazing end to an amazing expedition.

At 8:45 PM, we officially hit the Drake Passage. The rocking began immediately and will only get worse. I think it will be rock-a-bye James soon………………..

Wow – I slept very well and woke up when Jumper announced breakfast in 30 minutes. After breakfast, several people attended a carbon off-setting presentation given by James Burnham. The swells were really picking during his presentation.

After lunch, I went to the bridge to watch, take pictures and videos of the front of the ship crashing into the swell (waves) and the water completely coming over the front of the bow. On the way down to Antarctica, it was nicknamed the Drake Lake. This lake has awoken and we experienced the world’s roughest waters. At this point, the swells were about 3-5 meters high and the wind was blowing consistently between 30 – 40 knots (34 – 46 mph).

The main part of this storm hit just before dinner. Dinner was tough. There were things (chairs, drinks, plates, people, etc.) flying every which way. It made me wonder how the chef could prepare a meal in these conditions. After dinner, I went back to the bridge. I knew the conditions were bad but didn’t realize how bad they were until I looked out from the bridge. At this point, the swells were about 6+ meters high and the winds were blowing consistently between 60-70 knots (69 – 80 mph) with the highest gust recorded (and a picture taken of the wind gauge) of 80 knots (92 mph). Yes, we went through hurricane strength winds all evening and practically through the night.

I will try to explain the most amazing thing on this crossing that happened with such frequency. The winds were from the North so we would go up the swell and back down, like we were attacking each one. We would go up a swell, with the bow of the ship practically pointed straight upward and then the ship would ride the entire swell and then for a second or 2, the ENTIRE ship would be out of the water until the bow of the ship would bury itself in the sea. Next the rest of the ship would hit the water and there would be a loud noise followed by the whole ship just trembling. From the bridge, this was an amazing thing to watch and feel. From anywhere else, you could just feel it and you knew when it was coming.

As many of us were sitting in the lounge after dinner, it was very difficult for people to walk around and when they did, there were times when they would fall into people or even over chairs. Then Robert, in his usual tone, says you folks wanted an adventure, you are getting it. Nick then says it has been great, can we turn it off now and everyone laughed.

Off to bed to sleep out a hurricane…………………….

I keep waiting to wake up from this incredible dream I am having. In this dream, Antarctica is this place where each day, the next perfect thing happens.

Here is a little about my dream:

When we completed the Drake Passage crossing (which was extremely smooth for us), we saw our first iceberg. Of course it is one that is big and perfect, all alone and in the middle of nowhere. Next, we go through iceberg alley and the sights are so spectacular; it is like someone placed each of them in the most perfect place. Yet we know that Iceberg Alley is the remains of the Lawson Ice Shelf that disintegrated in a matter of months. As we slowly “moved” the packed ice in front of us, we hear a noise in the distance followed by the sighting of an avalanche on port side. We continue onward and this picturesque scenery keeps going on and on and on.

We are taken to the top of a spectacular ridge and in the middle of Nick’s LOTE (Leadership on the Edge) training, a third of a huge iceberg collapses. The iceberg rocks back and forth, deciding if it is going to tip over or not. The waves rock the ship violently and the waves crash on the other icebergs and finally ashore. It was true Mother Nature and the might she has.

I am on the bow of the ship when a pod of Orca whales cross in front of the bow and broke the surface all in unison like they have been practicing to show us. About an hour later, 2 breaching humpbacks put on a show for us. Later, we went to Paradise Bay. This place was like sitting in front of an artist’s greatest painting and it was right in front of us in EVERY direction.

There are so many incredible things we witnessed that it would take days to write about. However, we are about the start the departure of Antarctica towards Argentina. My dream ends knowing the saying that nothing in life is perfect! In my dream I have found one place I would say is the perfect place and it must be kept perfect!

However, if this is not a dream, then I have just found perfection and we ALL have a part to keep it that way.……………..