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Individual Members' Inspire Antarctic Expedition 2008

Iceberg Monday

17th March, 2008

Can I be woken up every day to the dulcet tones of the Expedition Leader, gently murmuring Team Inspire, Team Inspire” was heard in the line for breakfast. Maybe he can sell it as a ring tone?

Refreshed, there is a growing sense of anticipation amongst the Team as we make great headway towards Belinghausen. Sea conditions excellent, 12 knots in calm seas, it looks like we will be arriving ahead of schedule. All sea legs have been found and we assembled for the morning briefing.

A presentation on how to respect the pristine wilderness of Antarctica, of how to handle an inquisitive penguin or a slumbering seal. And then a real taste of expedition mode as we learn the skill of getting in and out of a moving Zodiac, avoiding icy waters. The trusty sailors handshake will be our friend when we descend from above.

Jumper, in only the way that he can, brought us face to face with reality as he showed us how to use the life jacket. The room was silent, you could hear a pin drop, as the team listened to his every word. And finally those Norwegians gave us an Ibsenesque demonstration of what to wear and what to bring on tomorrows landing at Belinghausen. Layers, layers, layers is the order of the day.

But let me tell about the highlight of a wonderful day. “ iceberg on the starboard side” was the call. And out we rushed and stared in awe at this huge mountain of ice, glistening with a blueish tinge, as we glided past. We knew that we were really entering the Antarctic world.

An afternoon of quietly standing in small groups out on deck, watching the journey towards our mooring off Belinghausen.

And guess who came to dinner? Yes, Rob Swan came across to greet the Team, following his 15 day stay in the E-base. It was wonderful to have him on board and a chance for him to meet all the Team. Tommorrow we get to spend the whole day onshore with Rob and the team there.

After dinner, another excellent presentation from james B on climate change. Everything from the “gases” to the activities that generate the gases, to the solution set that the world will need to address fast. Huge interest in the room and for sure an appetite for even more discussion over the next few days.

Gently rocking on anchor, close to King George island, the team headed to their cabins to prepare their gear for what will be a stimulating but challenging day onshore. How cold will it get? Will the winds blow? What does an E-base really look like? How does renewable energy really work. Answers tomorrow.

Goodnight from the MV Ushuaia, off King George island.

News from cabin 416

17th March, 2008

I arrived in Buenos Aires still beaming from Barnaby’s scholarship triumph. Crowded streets, lots of people and hasn’t it all got busier since I was last here in 1988. But I still could not find an open air restaurant for lunch. 25 degrees C and a great dinner with Blakers. Onwards to Ushuaia and what a wonderful place this is, at the bottom of the world. Stunning mountains, covered with snow and the glacier behind the hotel, that soon we were to scale. The glacier has retreated up the mountain since the folk were here last year. The team assemble, briefings, lectures and malbec fuelled lunches with my new friends. Last minute shopping and with some rather fetching fleece trousers, we get ready to sail. Down the Beagle channel into the Drake passage. Argentina on the port side and Chile to starboard. Luckily its only 1 to 2 metres swell and not the 15 metres that is sometimes on offer. All relatively calm. I take a couple of kwells and no suprises. The boat is great and cabin 416 belongs to me and Nick, my Aussie mate. I get the top bunk with sea views. Headroom limited. Days on the deck or in the lounge area, reading, chatting or siesta-ing, great lectures on subjects that really matter: climate change and how my life jacket works in very cold water. What a great group of people. Peter, our fearless leader and a wonderful person, the mischievous Norwegian Mountain men, Thron and Knut, Jumper, the safety King and Windy, organiser par excellence. And then the 70 others, from all over the world. James and school teacher Luke, David the happy Welsh rugby supporter, Lauren, Claire, Susannah and nPowered Nicola, to name but a few. Student Meighan, who is here c/o BP and always jolly. Today we crossed into Antarctic waters. And we saw our first Whales and our first Iceberg. Solitary, huge and a stunning blue tinge. Everything so quiet. The wind has got colder, but I haven’t yet unveiled the red boxing gloves. I suspect that they will be needed soon. How did Shackleton manage with just a tweed jacket and a woolly balaclava and Kendal mint cake? A feeling of excitement at the prospect of landing tomorrow at Belinghausen, of seeing Rob and the crew and seeing the E-Base ( hurray: its gone live). 10 hours on land , a tapestry of fleece and gore tex and gaiters. And no doubt, some penguins and some seals will come to greet us. No closer than 5 metres for those little chaps especially as they are moulting, so a bit cold, hungary and irritable. I really miss you all at home but I am so glad to be here. Its going to be an amazing next few days as we really experience the Antarctic. I will savour the moments. As Peter reminds us, we really are blessed to be here. And I’m still smiling.

Lots of love to all at home and see you soon, Marcus Ware / Dad 18/3/08 Belinghausen, King George Island

Sunday ( but no newspapers )

16th March, 2008

Awoken by our trusty skipper with his inspiring words, we realised that we had got through the night almost unscathed, with remarkably kind seas. We checked outside our cabin doors, but no papers left with yesterdays news. All our teams will have won anyway. Oh well, somehow that is all starting to feel like a long long way away.

How do they produce such a cracking breakfast? Lightly scambled eggs and bacon, fruit and crossaints, against a backdrop of gently rolling seas. And then a morning of various pursuits: a trip to the bridge to chat with the hugely focused autopilot and check the charts. 155 degrees south felt like we were heading vaguely to where we should be. Sea all around, a few birds watching our progress with quite some interest.

A excellent first lecture on climate change ( thank you James B) in a crowded conference room. Clearly a subject of major interest for everyone on the expedition and a real thirst for more information and discussion over the next few days.

Some walking around the decks ( did we miss the pool and the deck quoits on our tour?), some reading, some sleeping and some chilling. And a Latin American afternoon, with siestas for some and some getting used to the waves for others.

Back to the conference room for Bernice to enlighten us on the wildlife of Antarctica, all of which awaits us in days to come. Videos and dinner, time to chat and to reflect on a relaxing day. Just what Sunday should be like. But yippee: no going to the office tomorrow. Excitement builds, the expeditionary force in great spirits, and sunset over the Drake Passage at the end of Day 4.

( for those who have been following this epic tale and enjoying the photos c/o JC, with regrets we have been unable to locate him at this hour of broadcast. We will do better tomorrow)

Glacier day!

14th March, 2008

An amazing start to day2 , with the sun rising over the Beagle channel as the team were welcomed by Rob Swan, speaking live from the E-base, fully powered by renewable energy. A growing feeling of excitement in the room at the prospect of the adventure ahead. “Jumper’s ” intense safety briefing re-inforced the point that this is a serious Antartic expedition and not a Caribbean jaunt.

And then, the glacier hike. Six teams ventured up the mountain, to the base of the glacier. A chance for a few to lead, for teams to be built and friendships established. The Norwegians were the trusty pathfinders and JC’s magic mix provided the essential nutrient for weary limbs. Goal achieved, boots disinfected by the vigilant Jumper and a welcome lunch break.

The afternoon was all the team together and the “Leadership on the Edge ” programme was kicked off with an honest discussion about what really creates a high performing team, ably led by Nick, our tireless facilitator.

What a way to end the session. Annie held us spellbound with her personal reflection on Antartica, the history and goals of 2041 and the E-base. Most importantly, the point that this is a unique personal journey, something that few have been blessed with and a plea to seize every moment of the expedition.

Bright, clear skies over the Beagle Channel, team dinner and final packing.

Tommorrow, we sail – Southwards.